Of Canoes and Crocodiles: Paddling the Sepik in Papua New Guinea

Of Canoes and Crocodiles is a story of adventure in the remote and threatened landscapes of Papua New Guinea. In 2018, Tony Robinson-Smith and his wife Nadya Ladouceur bought dugout canoes and paddled down the Sepik, the country's longest river. Traveling with local guides and staying in their villages, Tony and Nadya ate smoked piranha and sago pancakes, heard tales of river gods and sorcerers, marvelled at rainbow bee-eaters and cat-size flying foxes, sank in a tropical storm, got lost in mosquito-infested swamplands, and hid from pirates in mangroves near the sea. As the narrative follows the bends of the river, Robinson-Smith incorporates into its flow descriptions of crocodile initiation rites, village "big men," the barter system, raskolism, and sing-sings. He reflects on clan loyalty, colonization, Christian missionaries, bride price, the environmental impacts of foreign logging and mining, and the joys and fears of following the current down a long, snaky waterway in a volatile Australasian country. "How far do you want to go?" Jeffrey asks.       The east-flowing Sepik is the longest river on the island of New Guinea. It meets the sea about a thousand kilometres from Green River.       "All the way," I reply.       The two Papuans nod thoughtfully and stroke their beards. I wipe sweat from my eyebrows with my palm. The fan seems more to stir the air than send a refreshing breeze. If it is this hot on the coast, what is it like in the interior?       "Is that possible, do you think?" Nadya asks Jeffrey. Good question. Papua New Guinea is just emerging from the rainy season. Is the water level too high at this time of year?       Jeffrey looks at us carefully for several moments. "It is possible, but, without a motor, it will take a long time. A month, maybe two."       "And," John says, leaning forward, "it will be dangerous. There are pukpuk in the river, and sometimes raskol raid other boat. West Sepik is peaceful. We know the tribes there. But the ones after that, well."       "Yes," says Jeffrey. "You should not go alone."       I nod. We had suspected as much. Yet I still cling to the notion we can simply get a canoe and paddle into an idyll, fishing for our meals, trading with villagers along the way, and riding up on the riverbank each night to pitch our tent. Who would wish to drop everything and go with us as a guide? We know nobody here. Besides, we aren't ready to leave for the jungle. We have almost no kina, only the little we got at the border in exchange for our remaining Indonesian rupiah, and we have no food (there are no stores in Green River, Jeffrey says, indeed none along the Upper Sepik). We should do the sensible thing. Bide our time on the coast, find out more about the Sepik, and prepare ourselves properly.       "Do you have room in the back of your truck for two Canadians?" I ask. Accompanied by local guides, two Canadians paddle dugout canoes down the Sepik River in Papua New Guinea, one of the world's great jungle rivers. Accompanied by local guides, two Canadians paddle dugout canoes down the Sepik River in Papua New Guinea, one of the world's great jungle rivers. Glossary, map, 20 B&W images and drawings "Tony Robinson-Smith and his wife, Nadya, paddle down the Sepik River in Papua New Guinea, traveling through a jungle environment inhabited by villagers and raskols (bandits). The resulting story, filled with anecdotes, entertains and educates. Of Canoes and Crocodiles is a captivating read for armchair adventurers and explorers alike." Ken McGoogan, whose latest book is Shadows of Tyranny "This expedition is filled with humour, suspense, and careful observation, offering a unique glimpse into this lesser-known region-a must-read for travel enthusiasts." Ken Haigh, author of On Foot to Canterbury